First of all, I’m not against strict climbing training programs. For very serious climbers, these will be helpful and necessary. But for most of us, it is too burdensome to stick to the strict schedule, and it makes us bail easily.
I’ve spent my fair share of hard bouldering training. At some point, I would feel like being on the verge of an injury. What stopped me from going to0 far is the rule I posed to myself to always listen to my body.
So, the gang is hanging in the gym. We are on a hang board or working on a very crimpy detail. And they are yelling: “Go! Go! Go! You can do it!” And maybe I can, but at some point, I stop myself. Climbing training is not a sprint, it’s a marathon. There will be time to break a grade, and it does not have to be today. Climbing taught me to pace myself, and it has been soo rewarding.
As far as the training goes, I stick to some basic rules:
- Warm up contains a combination of easy details and sloper hanging because this is the way to Warm my fingers and avoid crimping while doing so.
- Variation 1: Ease myself toward hard problems. Do a couple of hard problems in the middle of the training and don’t overdo it. Variation 2: Working on endurance: Climb about 10 easy routes. Variation 3: Pick 5 details on the verge of my possibilities and do them four times in a row with 5 minutes breaks between the cycles. You can see that these are basic strength, endurance, and strong endurance patterns. No complications. No need to bring a notebook to the gym with you. No pressure. And it works.
- After strength practice, I will do a couple of easy details to decompress machines. Maybe I will do some core exercises, pull-ups, or something similar but not overdo it.
- I would always ease myself to the stretching part by first doing the legs and maybe rest a bit if I have time. It’s easy to overdo it when you are warmed up like hell. If time allows me, I would stretch at home after a shower. That way my muscles are relaxed and ready for a good night’s sleep.
An extra tip: Yoga does wonders for flexibility, relaxation, and focus. I would just do yoga on youtube because it is easy to get into the flow and there are no complications around pushing another activity into a busy schedule.